Suits you! The Jeeves Guide To Looking Sharp In A Suit This Season
“-'What do ties matter, Jeeves, at a time like this?'
There is no time, sir, at which ties do not matter”
― P.G. Wodehouse
- Doesn’t suit you, sir! An incredible 25% of British men have no idea what size they really are. Learn to spot the tell-tale signs of an ill-fitting jacket: if the shoulder has a divot, the jacket is too wide; if it forms an X shape when buttoned, it’s too snug. Check the shoulders and chest - the jacket needs to fit in these places, as they’re the hardest to alter. Your lapels should lie flat against the front panels and the buttons should hang close to your stomach.
- In terms of length, the suit jacket should reach the knuckle of your thumb.
- Cuffs are an important part of your suit, and about half inch should show when standing.
- Be on the button! Remember it’s always acceptable to fasten the middle button on either a two-button or three-button jacket. Fastening the top button is optional with a three-button jacket, but under no circumstances should you fasten the bottom button with either jacket option. Like with a single-breasted suit, don’t fasten the bottom button on a double-breasted suit.
- When seated whilst wearing your jacket, always unfasten all the buttons on your jacket. Leaving it buttoned can ruin the buttons and thread, or even change its shape.
- When storing your jacket, button it up - it'll keep the it secure, straight, and unwrinkled on the hanger and will prevent it from changing shape over time.
- A neck tie has always been, and always will be, the square root to really getting respect in the masculine fashion and business stakes. Your tie should always just reach the belt or waistband of your trousers. And it should always be darker than your shirt.
- Dry-clean your suit within 48 hours of a sartorial spillage. In fact, dry clean any garment within 48 hours of any staining, and never dab at it, otherwise stains can set and become hard to remove from the fabric.
- When you undress from your suit, immediately hang it in an open area and let it air out for a few hours before putting it back into your wardrobe. If there are no stains on it, use a wooden or plastic hanger with wide ends to preserve the broad shape of the shoulders.
- Lastly, ensure you get any new suit professionally tailored for the best possible fit and shape. There is no substitute for a tailor’s exact measurement of your body to create a suit that fits you like a glove. A tailored suit coat will accentuate your best features and mask the ones you’d prefer not to highlight. For as Charles Hix once said, “Looking good isn’t self-importance; it’s self-respect.”